How do I choose a handgun?
- Bryan Lentz
- Nov 2
- 8 min read
Choosing the Right Handgun Made Simple
Selecting your first handgun—or even your next one—can feel overwhelming. That’s why we’ve created resources to guide you through the process.
1. Read the blog post below
An in-depth discussion about the questions to ask yourself when choosing a handgun and the subsequent steps for purchase.
2. Take the Handgun Selector Tool
Our survey considers factors such as hand size, grip strength, recoil tolerance, budget, and intended use. Based on your responses, it suggests handguns that are more likely to feel comfortable, safe, and enjoyable for you to shoot.
3. Download the PDF Checklist & Rubric
This structured guide lets you evaluate different handguns in-person. It provides space to record your impressions—especially regarding ergonomics—so you can compare models objectively and make a confident choice.
Whether you’re new to firearms or refining your collection, these tools will help you narrow down your options and shop smarter.
How do I pick the right handgun for me?
There are many factors to consider when deciding which firearm to choose. One of the worst things you can do is just ask the gun store clerk for his/her opinion and go with that. Everyone in the firearms community has a different opinion on the matter. So, to help you choose the right handgun for you, here is a list of questions to ask yourself and factors to consider.
What is the purpose of the firearm? (target shooting, competition, home defense, for concealed carry)
This will dictate if your firearm should be a “Full-size”, “Compact”, or “Subcompact” gun.
Full-size firearms are more comfortable to shoot and are ideal for target shooting. Some models are good for competition shooting due to their oversized control levers, upgraded trigger, polished metal-on-metal surfaces, etc
Smaller/lighter guns have more felt “kick” or recoil.
Compact or subcompact firearms are more concealable.
Remember: the shorter the sight radius is (the distance between the front and rear sights) and the shorter the barrel is, thus the less accurate the firearm will be (or at least the harder it is to be accurate).
Some firearm models have smaller, or “baby,” versions of the full sized model; therefore, you can have familiarity with both firearms. Also, the smaller versions often accept the full-sized magazines.
Remember: as long as the firearm is not a single-shot, all handguns can be used for home defense.
Revolver vs. Semi-auto?
Pros for revolvers:
Revolvers are simple; no disassembly required to clean, just open the cylinder and clean. No need to rack the slide to load or unload, just open the cylinder and put the rounds in or take the rounds out.
Generally revolvers are more accurate due to their fixed barrel (only if they have a single-action mode).
Generally more reliable: does not need recoil to operate properly and feed the subsequent rounds.
Cons for revolvers:
Limited number of rounds: 6 rounds generally, 5-8 depending on the model.
Slower to reload, you must extract the empty casings first.
Harder to fire quickly: the double-action trigger has a longer and stiffer trigger pull.
Comes in limited calibers (.22, .38/.357, .45 colt, .44 magnum). There are a few 9mm revolvers, but special ammo clips are needed.
Pros for Semi-autos:
Holds more ammunition: depending on the model, can hold up to 17-18 rounds (CA = 10 rounds depending on current Court decisions)
Faster reloading (changing magazines is always faster than revolver reloading).
Lighter trigger pull: striker fire and single-action firearms have the same trigger pull from shot to shot, and thus shooters are typically more accurate.
Cons for Semi-autos:
More complex to operate; loading/unloading. With training and practice, you can get used to the operation.
They can have malfunctions (stoppages). If shooting with improper body mechanics or weak ammo, they can fail to feed the ammo properly. However, with a quality handgun and good ammunition, much of these malfunctions can be greatly reduced, but you must learn and train on how to deal with these malfunctions.
Caliber? (definition of “caliber”: basically the size of the ammunition; diameter of the bullet, diameter and length of the casing which will determine how much gunpowder it will hold). The purpose of the handgun will help determine which caliber you should choose.
.22 = most affordable ammunition, lightest recoil, not intended for self defense, but an option for very petite or frail people with weak grip strength.
.380 auto = bare minimum for defensive purposes, but has its limitations, not as common of caliber thus a bit more costly, yet very controllable recoil.
9mm = most common caliber, all around choice for target shooting, self defense, and competition. Controllable recoil.
.38 special / .357 magnum = most common revolver caliber, for defense and target shooting. Both calibers can be shot through .357 revolvers, using .38 Special ammo has a lighter recoil, but the .357 magnum, a round with more powder chard, is definitely a defensive round. NOTE: .357 magnum ammo can not be shot through a .38 revolver.
.40S&W = more powerful than 9mm, slightly more recoil, definitely a defensive round, not as common thus a little more costly.
.45 ACP = larger bullet, more recoil, does not mean more “stopping power,” harder follow up shots (needs practice), yet common to purchase.
10mm = very powerful, hard to control multiple shots, not common thus more expensive. The caliber is big enough to fend off bears!
.44 magnum = extremely powerful, expensive ammo, generally in revolvers only (only a few semi-auto models available in this caliber).
Expense and availability of ammunition for your particular gun?
Common ammo is more available.
The more expensive the ammo is, the less often you will want to shoot.
Cheaper “ball” ammo is for practice. Hollow point ammo is for defense.
Single or double stack magazine pistol?
Single stack - slimmer, more concealable, smaller hands find it more comfortable. Limited capacity (6 to 8 rounds)
Double stack - larger capacity is a bonus (upwards of 15-18 rounds), medium sized hands can fit most all models, but bulkier to conceal.
When at the store:
Check the feel of the grip in your hand?
Is it comfortable for you? Hold the firearm with one hand and two.
Does it have a natural grip angle with a natural point of aim for you? To test this, close your eyes, point the firearm in a safe direction as if you’re lining up the sights on a target, then open your eyes and see if the sights are aligned for you.
Sights?
Are they easy to see and line up for you?
Easy to rack the slide? Can you rack the slide easily, or is it too stiff for you?
Does it have serrations to help your hand grip the slide in order to rack it?
How easy is the slide catch lever to reach for you?
How hard is it to depress the slide catch and release the slide?
How hard is it for you to open the slide and push up on the slide catch to lock the slide in the open position?
Magazine release button, is it easy to reach and depress it to drop the magazine?
Do the magazines come out of the gun easily and re-insert easily?
Some guns have a beveled “magazine well” making it easier to insert the magazine such as competition guns have.
Check the trigger (only with store’s permission! Point it in a safe direction)
Check the amount of “slack” the trigger has (that is, the distance from the trigger’s resting position to the “wall,” where you start to feel resistance).
Check the amount of creep as you slowly apply pressure. (the amount of trigger travel from the “wall” to the “break”)
Notice the amount of force it takes to make the trigger break (“trigger pull”).
Check the reset length (while holding the trigger rearward, rack the slide, then slowly release the trigger until you feel and hear the trigger “reset”)
The longer the reset is, the harder it will be to shoot multiple shots quickly.
Note the distance back to the wall (distance from the “reset” back to the “wall”). The smaller distance is, the better it will be for rapid shooting.
Ease of disassembly and reassembly
Ask the store clerk to demonstrate how to disassemble and reassemble the firearm for cleaning purposes. (Or use YouTube for a tutorial)
Expense of extra magazines?
Availability of accessories? (holsters, grips, different sights, etc…)
Does it have an accessory rail under the slide to attach a light (if you want one)?
Does the slide have a cut-out to accept a red-dot optic?
Are there high profile sights available so you can see the iron sights through the optic, or to have them “co-witness” with the red dot?
Reputation of the model or manufacturer for reliability?
You can search the Internet for reviews.
Manufacturer's Warranty?
Does the company stand behind their product?
Some manufacturers (like Ruger and Taurus) have a lifetime warranty: anything that goes wrong with the gun, it will be fixed by the manufacturer, free of charge.
Price?(as of 2024)
Under $200: Danger of blowing up in your hand. Don’t bother!
$200 - $300: Very rarely can you find a decent firearm in this range, but there may be a “diamond in the rough,” but unlikely.
$300 - $400: More than likely very small and not comfortable to shoot, even if it might be reliable from a reputable company. However, it might suffice for a “starter gun” to learn the basics if you can’t afford to spend more. Used guns could be found in this range that work perfectly well; however, you really don’t know what abuse the firearm has gone through unless you get an armorer to inspect the gun for signs of wear and abuse.
$400 - $600: Many decent affordable options to choose from. Price is not always a sign of quality, but expect to pay in this range for most handgun purchases.
$600 - $800: Many quality firearms are available. Most of the time, you won’t be disappointed. But stick to reputable companies.
$800 - $1100: Could be an awesome gun, but make sure you know what you are shopping for and why. Many guns in this range are not necessarily better than a $500 version (remember: more expensive does not necessarily mean better). However, many competitive shooters choose this price range for a particular reason. It is best to be a more experienced shooter and know exactly what you’re looking for to justify the expense.
Over $1100: Wait until you are very experienced and schooled in what you want. Know and appreciate the finer aspects of quality handguns in this price range.
Purchasing the new firearm:
Be sure to bring your government issued identification (driver’s license) to the store.
Your driver’s license must have your current address on it.
Bring a utility bill or vehicle registration as proof of your address. (bring two documents just in case they ask for two)
Bring your current Firearms Safety Certificate (FSC) for California.
If you have never taken one, see next step.
Be prepared to take a firearm safety certificate test. It is good for 5-years.
Study material can be found on the Internet.
The test can be administered there in the store and takes about 10-15 minutes.
The store clerk will have you fill out the paperwork.
Listen to the clerk. Follow all his/her instructions.
Answer truthfully to all the check-box questions.
You’ll have to give your right thumbprint on the form
Pay for the firearm. If you can’t pay in full, the store might have a lay-away program where you can pay installments, but your 10-day waiting period will not start until you have paid in full.
If you do not have a gun safe at home to securely store your firearm, you must also purchase a cable lock from the store.
If you do, then you will have to sign an affidavit to affirm you have one at home.
You must wait 10-days until you can pick up the firearm (“Waiting period” in California).
Only active duty police officers are exempt from the waiting period.
- Bryan Lentz
Firearms Instructor
Caliber Training, LLC
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